NIN 1 Ghosts I - Fry's Aquarium

The Aquariums in Fry's Electronics have some pretty fish. This big guy took to me just soon as I walked in the door at Fry's Electronics. Regardless where I went around the aquarium, he followed right along with me. When I walked away, he went about his business; but when I looked back from about 10 yards, he came right back to the glass, (to see if I might come back?) When I had a small 15 gal. aquarium years ago, one night I noticed that they are aware when you are looking at them, even if not overtly. I did experiments several times to see if my hypothisis was correct. I would be watching TV and noticed when I looked over at the aquarium several of the fishes would instantly stop swimming and seemed to be staring at me. This was true even if I only turned my my eyes on them without moving my head. Trip Out. Nine Inch Nails, 1 Ghosts I eemed an appropriate mood. Do you know what side of the glass you are on?

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Types of Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp

There are many types of freshwater aquarium shrimp. Some are well suited to life in captivity in a shrimp aquarium and some are not as they will die out once held in captivity. For the most part, though, it is fairly hardy and do well with minimal care. We will look at several different shrimp in this article.

Firstly, the Red Cherry Shrimp. As you might suspect, the name comes from it red coloring. However, the red color in the shrimp is not widespread when you first get them until they get comfortable in their new surroundings. The female of this species is a darker red than the male. Both male and female can withstand water temperatures that vary.

The Bee Shrimp. The Bee Shrimp is so named because of the stripes along the outer shell that resemble the stripes on a bee. This shrimp eats either fish food or algae. If you want to breed shrimp, the Bee Shrimp is an easy one to breed but it will not thrive in water temperatures that get too hot.

Third on the list is the Tiger Shrimp which has jagged stripes like a tiger. It will also eat fish food or algae. For breeders, know that this shrimp will cross breed so if you want to keep your shrimp pure to their original coloring and species, then do not put them together in the same tank.

The Green Shrimp cannot tolerate water that's too hard. It belongs to the Indian Dwarf family of shrimp and when upset or unhealthy, it green color won't be the same. That's usually a sign that something is either disturbing the shrimp or it needs to be investigated for disease.

An interesting shrimp for most hobbyists is the Snowball Shrimp. Many assume because the shrimp has a pale color that is where the name came from. But it is called Snowball because the eggs look like snowballs. You can see the eggs through it body. It is sturdy and breeds easily.

The Malaya Shrimp is a rare shrimp that can thrive in ordinary tap water that is been treated for the chlorine that is dangerous to shrimp. Unlike some in the species, it will not interbreed. The unique Ninja Shrimp is a color changing mainly found in Japan. It has a high tolerance for a variety of water temperatures.

One of the rarest shrimps is nicknamed the Vampire Shrimp. The scientific name for this shrimp is Atya Gabonensis. It is a large shrimp given the nickname because the front legs resemble fangs.

The Yellow Nose Shrimp is a transparent shrimp with a long nose that can appear orange under some lighting. Before you set up your shrimp aquarium, make sure you study exactly what kind of water temperature and food your species will need to thrive.

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Tropical Fish Tank Aquariums - How to Deal With Common Problems

Once you have installed your fish tank aquarium you you will want to take pleasure in your new hobby. Taking care of your new fish tank aquarium is fairly easy, nevertheless a number of problems may appear, particularly in newly set up aquariums. It all may look perfectly OK for a short while then bit by bit algae begins to grow and overtake the aquarium, the fish start to get sick and die and your newly set up tank no longer looks like the aquariums in the pictures. How did this happen? Why did this happen? What went so drastically wrong? What can you do to correct it?

Please don't panic and absolutely do not rush off to the nearest aquarium supplier, buy remedies and toss them in the aquarium. This will only compound the problems! Something else that novice fish keepers are inclined to do in a panic is to thoroughly clean out the tank to start again. This is completely wrong as the useful bacteria in the tank will be tossed out as well and you will have to recycle the tank again.

You really need to find out what is wrong and slowly correct it, without chemical treatments which could change the tank's delicate balance even more.

High Concentrations of Deadly Chemicals

The worse occurrence is the sudden death of your fish. Are you sure the tank was cycled properly before you added the fish? The most common cause of fish dying suddenly is high concentrations of nitrites or ammonia from the fish's waste products. You will need to use a fish tank test kit to properly check if this is the problem. If proper cycling of the tank wasn't carried out there will be insufficient nitrogen fixing bacteria to cope with with these toxic chemicals, especially if you have a crowded tank. Do you have too many fish in the tank? This will overwork the bacteria that are dealing with the waste and lead to an increase in the levels of ammonia and nitrite.

Bullying Fish

Do you have a good combination of species in the aquarium? A few fish can be OK when young but can become bullies when mature. Tiger barbs are notorious for being bullies. Any bullying fish should be taken out and given away!

Lack of Water Changes

Has the water been partially changed often enough? Although nitrites and ammonia are processed by the beneficial bacteria, they convert these into the less toxic nitrates. However nitrates are not completely non toxic. When the levels of nitrates increase too much they can damage the fish and they must be removed by doing a partial water change.

Adding Chlorine Contaminated Water

Tap water always contains chlorine which is easily dealt with by leaving the water standing for a few days. Some authorities also add chloramines which you can't remove so easily. If your tap water does contain chloramines, or you don't know, you should add a chemical treatment to deal with them them before adding the water to the fish tank.

Overfeeding The Fish

Overfeeding is a widespread problem and results in uneaten, food rotting. This then releases deadly chemicals that put an extra burden on the bacteria. The effect is an abrupt increase in these chemicals that can harm the fish. When you are feeding your tropical fish ensure you Do not give them more than they can clear up in roughly 3 minutes. If you can see food collecting on the the gravel you have overfed them!

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Clown Fish, Tangs and Angelfish

As a marine aquarium enthusiast, you will have you veritable pick of the litter when it comes to species selection for your tank. The only limiting factor in most cases is the size of your aquarium and the size of your budget. Some are common and cheap while others are rare and expensive. Below we take a look at the most popular choices for marine hobbyists today.

At the top spot, we have the familiar amphiprion ocellaris in addition to amphiprion percula. These are most widely recognized clownfish in the hobby in addition to being the most popular ornamental saltwater fish on the market. Some of you might have seen finding nemo, where the species is well represented. However, to most saltwater hobbyists they are simply identified as the false percula and the true percula.

They look almost entirely identical with the difference being the number of dorsal spines present. Amphiprion Ocellaris is a cheap fishes that is a staple in the industry. Amphiprion percula commands a higher price along with is less common than its recognizable cousin. They both do well in the aquarium and are good selections for experienced or new enthusiasts.

The yellow tang in addition to the blue tang fill in the second spot. They are a recognizable choice on posters and a variety of saltwater aquarium products on the market. The blue tang also had some air time on the animated movie, Finding Movie. There, she was identified as the clumsy Dory. Blue tangs are usually cheaper than yellow tangs as they are imported in huge quantities.

They are both great candidates for captive life if they have ample room to swim in addition to are treated for any parasites that came in with them during shipment. Like It must be noted however that all tangs are susceptible to lateral line erosion plus particularly marine ich. Ensure they are given a diet that is rich in greens as they are algae grazers in the wild.

Finally, four angelfish make up the last spot. They are the dwarf flame angelfish, French angelfish, emperor angelfish as well as the stunning queen angelfish. These four always get top demand from the marine community. They are the most costly recognizable fishes in this article. For very large, show quality specimens of queen angelfish, french angelfish plus emperor angelfish, expect to pay hundreds per specimen.

Flame angelfish usually cost less than their larger sized brethren. But that does not reflect on its beauty as it is easily on of the most stunning members of the family centropyge. They should be fed a well rounded diet that includes seafood as well as seaweed plus algae. For the most part, angels are not reef safe so do not house them with corals. However, you're bound to have more luck with the dwarf angelfish family in this respect.

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An Aquarium Care Guide For Beginners

Everyone loves watching fish swim in tanks, but beginning an aquarium requires just more than water and a fish. It takes the know how to care for the type of fish you have brought home, and what specific needs it has, such as fish food and water temperature. You will also need a crash course in pet health, as fish are unlike many other traditional pets. Some fish like cooler water, while others like warmer water. Some fish require tropical fish food, others will eat just about anything. While fish are considered low maintenance pets, aquarium care for beginners is not always so. Choosing the aquarium size to bring home will require knowledge of what type of fish you are purchasing. You will need to consider their growth rate and what size they will be comfortable in. Goldfish are known to be smaller fish, but depending on what size tank they are housed in will determine how big they grow. It is possibly to have a huge goldfish in a home aquarium. It is best to study up on the type of fish you are curious about prior to bringing them home as pets.

Different types of aquarium fish will require different size aquariums, and different types of pet health care. Choosing what type of aquarium fish to bring home depends on the time you want to spend caring for your new pet. When considering the aquarium care for beginners, you should consider the amount of maintenance you are willing to take on. Goldfish are notorious for needing constant maintenance, while Bettas, or Siamese Fighting fish, can require very little maintenance and not much room in a tank. There are also school fish that can survive in less than three or four gallons of water with minimal cleaning. However, tanks will need regular cleaning. After all, your fish is swimming in water that is not freshly feed, so there are greater chances of the water becoming stagnant and toxic to them. Cleaning their tank on a regular basis will keep your fish happy and maintain a strong pet health.

Feeding your fish will mean that you are responsible for their nutrition and effectively their pet health. Certain fish will require specific fish food, like Bettas have specific food since they are carnivores, and warmer water fish require tropical fish food. Be sure to ask about specific fish food prior to arriving home with your fish. Each fish has different requirements where food is concerned, so knowing what food your fish needs is important. Fish can be quite fragile if their ecosystem is thrown askew. Research tips for aquarium care for beginners prior to purchasing a fish. You do not want to go into adopting a new pet without a sense of the requirements and responsibilities of your new pets. Even though fish may seem like an easy pet to adopt, they can be quite fussy if not managed appropriately. Choosing the best fish for your situation is the first step you should take when considering a fish as a pet.

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10 Gallon Aquarium - Set it Up Right

10 gallon aquariums need to be set up in exactly the same way as you would if the tank was a much larger one.  If you want the fish that you buy to place in a 10 gallon aquarium to survive, then the first thing you need to do is actually create the right kind of environment for them first.

In a 10 gallon aquarium you have the choice of keeping either freshwater or tropical saltwater fish in them, as you would in much larger size aquariums.  But whatever the size of aquarium you have, you need to follow the same principles when it comes to setting one up.  In this article we are going to explain what it is you need to do if you choose to set up a freshwater 10 gallon aquarium.

10 Gallon Aquarium - Things To Do First When Setting One Up

The first thing you need to do as soon as you get your  aquarium home is clean it well.  Yes the glass may look clean but there will still be some dirt, dust and other contaminants on it.  Use a small amount of detergent mixed into some water to scrub your aquarium out thoroughly.

After washing with the detergent mixture, you now need to rinse the aquarium out thoroughly.  Do this several times to help remove the debris and also to make sure that none of the detergent residue is left behind.

After cleaning the aquarium, now you need to spend time cleaning the equipment which is going to be placed into it.  Again you need to rinse each piece of equipment that you have cleaned thoroughly to remove detergent residue and debris.  Even the smallest amount of detergent left in a newly cleaned 10 gallon aquarium tank or its equipment can prove detrimental to the health of fish and marine life in the tank, in fact it could lead to some or all of them dying.

Before you put any gravel into your  aquarium, again make sure that is washed thoroughly.  The easiest way of doing this is to place it in a large colander, and then place under a running tap and allow it to wash over the gravel for some time.  If you intend to put any plants (fresh or plastic) into an aquarium (no matter what size), you should place them in a bucket of clean freshwater and leave them in situ until you are ready to put them into the aquarium.

10 Gallon Aquarium - Other Things To Do When Setting It Up

Before you do put all the equipment into your aquarium, it is a good idea to test if it is leaking.  This can be done easily just by filling it with water and then monitoring it for several hours.  If it isn't leaking, then drain the water away and you can now start on the setting up process for real.

After you have filled the aquarium with the gravel and filtration system (which can be situated on the side of the tank or under the gravel, fill it with dechlorinated water.  If you are unsure that the water you are using does not contain chlorine, then mix a chlorine remover into it first.  Make sure you use the correct dosage as instructed by the manufacturer of this product.

In order to avoid disturbing the aquarium gravel which you have placed into your  aquarium, place a dish on top of it, and then pour the water you are putting into the tank on to the dish rather than directly onto the gravel.  Do this very slowly and then remove the dish once you have filled the 10 gallon aquarium completely.

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A Complete Guide to Marine Fish Keeping

Marine Aquarium System

INTRODUCTION

Setting up aquariums at home as a piece of decoration has been a very common practice. This, not only enhances the beauty of our room, but adds life to our room also. If you think more in depth, this small piece of decoration can be categorized into a number of types depending on the differences in set-up and constitution. A 'Marine Aquarium' is a type which has to be decorated with marine plants and animals. This again can be further subdivided into the following types;
o Fish Only (FO)
o Fish Only with Live Rock (FOWLR) and
o Reef Aquaria

Marine fish keeping is entirely different from the other types as this involves more knowledge and study. An extensive knowledge is required regarding the composition of water, its chemical properties and the adaptability of the inhabitants of a marine aquarium.

To start with, let us first discuss the very first step of installing a 'Marine Aquarium System' which includes the major components that are essential for a marine aquarium.

Major Components of a Marine Aquarium

The very first thing required for the installation of a Marine Aquarium is a sound knowledge of all the major components of it. The usual volume range of Marine Aquariums is from less than 80 litres to over 1200 litres. The major components of a Marine Aquarium are;

o An Aquarium, made of glass or acrylic
o Filtration Equipment
o Proper Lighting
o Aquarium Heater and Refrigeration Devices

The material of the aquarium should be preferably made of glass or acrylic. Glass is used mainly because of its holding strength, transparency and inexpensive too. Also, glass has a remarkable feature of distributing the total pressure within the whole aquarium. However, acrylic can also be used as an alternative to glass as it is light weight and can be moulded very easily to give varied shapes and sizes. In addition, it is scratch resistant and provides a much better electric insulation, although its price is a bit higher.

The filtration set up of a marine aquarium is much more complex compared to other freshwater aquariums and includes physical, chemical and biological filtration as well. The most commonly used filtration equipments are; Wet and Dry Filters and Protein Skimmers. A Protein Skimmer is a device which is used to remove organic compounds from the water before they are further broken into nitrogenous wastes. Protein skimming is an important process of filtration as this is the only method of filtration where the organic compounds are removed physically before they are decomposed - thus improving the water property. Some of the marine aquariums also contain a Refugium or a Sump. A refugium is a small container, or more likely a small aquarium which is laid beneath the marine aquarium and is connected to it by a water pump. A sump however contains a number of chambers, each of which is filled with its own filtration material.

Lights play a major role in marine aquariums, so proper lighting is very much essential in this case. Although, it is advised to set a cyclical lighting arrangement in order to stimulate the day and night, but it varies depending on the type of inhabitants of the aquarium. For a typical 'Fish Only' type, intense light is not required. But in case of aquariums containing invertebrates, an intense light is preferred. The most commonly used lights are; Fluorescent, VHO Fluorescent with very high intensity, Compact Fluorescent, LED and Metal Halide. Although there are a lot of variations regarding this sources of light, but all this technologies have its own advantages and disadvantages. The two most important factors that should be taken into consideration while selecting a lighting arrangement are; wattage and color temperature. The wattage of the lights may vary from tens to several hundreds, depending on the type of lighting used. Color temperature, on the other hand, is nothing but the color of light emitted by the lighting system. Color temperature >5000K has proved to be best for growing plants in marine aquariums. A 10,000K lighting system throws a bluish-white radiation which affects the colours in fishes and corals. A much higher spectrum, say 14,000K and 20,000K produces a deep blue radiation, like that of under the sea and creates a similar environment.

A Marine Aquarium temperature should be maintained at 24 to 28 degrees Celsius, which is similar to the natural environment of the marine inhabitants. In cases, where the aquarium temperature is less than this desired temperature, an 'Aquarium Heater' is used. On the other hand, if the temperature is greater than desired, a refrigeration device known as 'Chillers' is used to lower down the aquarium temperature.

Set-up the Marine Aquarium - 1st Part

Once you are ready with all the essential components of a Marine Fish Tank, the second major step is the setting up process. It is a lengthy process and might take 4 to 8 weeks before you can actually add any marine life into the set-up. The major steps included in the set-up process are;

o Deciding the aquarium size and location
o Arranging the essential aquarium equipments
o Setting up the aquarium with all the equipments
o Adding previously mixed saltwater to the aquarium
o Curing of live rock
o Adding the substrate
o Monitoring the water thoroughly and allow the tank to cycle.
o Adding marine fishes.

So let's discuss all the major points by step.

Aquarium size and location: The size of the aquarium varies with the type of marine fish you would like to keep. This is because the size and growth of marine fishes varies from an inch to about 12 or 18 inches. It is always better to avoid smaller tanks as this requires frequent water testing and greater maintenance. A perfect place to set up your marine system is in that area where the external sources such as windows or heater vent hardly affects the light and temperature of the aquarium. Last but not the least, the stand should be strong enough to hold the total weight of the aquarium.

Essential aquarium equipments: It is advisable to list down and arrange all the essential equipments required for setting up a marine aquarium before the set-up process so that you do not miss out a single. The first thing you need to decide is the type of filtration. A combination of live rock as a biological filter and protein skimmer as a method for mechanical and chemical filtration is perfect in this case. Arrange the live rock, sand and a power strip. Live sand or aragonite based sand, especially from caribsea is the best choice. You can also use crushed coral as a best choice, but avoid using sandbox or playground sand as these are harmful for your marine life.

Set up your aquarium: Avoid using soap or detergents to wash the tank as the soap residues prove to be harmful for marine fishes. Wash it up with water only and fill it up with fresh water for smoke and leakage testing, if any. Drain out the water once the test is done and the next step is to fix a background. It is advisable to paint the background as there are no chances of salt creep getting in between the background and glass. The painting should be done at the outside wall of the backside and not in the inside wall. A black background is ideal for marine tanks as this enhances the color of the fishes. Alternatively, you can also use deep blue as this helps in creating an illusion of water depth. After the tank has been left for a day in order to allow the paint to dry off, install the heater, filter and protein skimmer. Do not forget to use a drip loop on all the power cords and check back the aquarium electrical paths.

Set-up the Marine Aquarium - 2nd Part

Add pre-mixed saltwater: You can use most of the commonly available mixtures, unless you are setting a reef tank. Take a 5 gallon bucket, fill it up and remove the chlorine and chloramine using suitable additives and medicines for Aquariums.. Then slowly add the salt mixture to the water at room temperature with constant stirring. Once you are sure that the whole salt mixture has dissolved completely, test it with a hydrometer or refractometer. Once the specific gravity reaches between 1.021 and 1.024, the water is ready to be added into your aquarium. Make sure to allow the water to circulate for about a day or two by turning the aquarium on.

Curing the live rock: Though quite expensive, but live rock falls under the essential part of Marine Aquarium. This is only because live rock is considered to be the best form of biological filtration. Depending on the shape of the rock, the period of curing may extend from 1 week to 2 months even. After draining some water out of the aquarium, place the live rock in the middle of it with the powerheads aiming at the rocks. You need to brush the rocks every after few days regularly, but do not forget to turn off the power in the tank. You may use new rubber kitchen gloves or brush with plastic bristles to scrub and remove the dead organisms in the rock. Now siphon the disposals and fill the tank with previously mixed saltwater. Do not forget to put a powerhead and a heater in the mixing container in order to mix uniformly and keep on testing regularly to ensure that the tank is cycling. One smarter way to understand that the live rock is cured is that when the tank stops smelling bad. The tank water should be free from ammonia and nitrite, so do not miss out to test it at regular intervals.

Adding substrate: once the curing process of live rock is completed, you need to prepare your aquarium for the substrate layer. For that, first of all drain out some water to make a space for the sand and then turn off the aquarium power. Take a large bucket, say about 5 gallon and pre-mix in it about 2 gallons of saltwater. Add the sand in the pre-mixed saltwater and keep on stirring. By constant stirring, the dust and unwanted particles will rise up which you must drain out carefully. Also drain out some saltwater from the mixing bucket and then with the help of a ladle or something like that add the clean sand to the aquarium slowly. You might use a powerhead for blowing off, if any sand particles get into the live rock. So, finally the marine tank set-up process seems to have come to an end. Now at this stage, the only thing that is advised is to allow the tank to settle down. For another few days, keep on monitoring the water parameters without disturbing the tank much.

Set-up the Marine Aquarium - 3rd Part

Monitoring the tank: Once the aquarium is ready with all the essential components, it needs a standing time of few days to settle down. During this phase your most important task is to constantly monitor all the delicate parameters so as to ensure a perfect environment for the marine fishes. The monitoring includes;

o Checking the temperature of the aquarium water
o Checking the specific gravity of the aquarium water
o Checking the pH balance of the aquarium water
o Checking the ammonia level
o Checking the nitrite level
o Checking the nitrate level of the aquarium water
o Checking the carbonate hardness level of the aquarium water

All the above parameters should be perfectly within the desired range. A little disbalance in any of these above parameters can be a threat to marine life. So, it is advised to perform this monitoring process very carefully. Any imbalance if noted, must be rectified and brought to normal level before the addition of marine fishes.

The temperature range of the aquarium should be between 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C) and the specific gravity should range from 1.020 to 1.024. Moreover, the pH reading of the aquarium water should be between 8.0 to 8.4. Note that the levels of ammonia and nitrite content in the aquarium water should be 0. In other words, there must not be any trace of ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium water. However, the nitrate content of the water should be around 20ppm or less, especially for the invertebrates whereas, the carbonate hardness range is 7 - 10dKH. The water we use daily is generally rich in phosphates, which must be taken care of. Presence of phosphate in the aquarium water increases the chances of some of the undesirable algae growth. While even a small amount of copper in the aquarium could be a threat to snails, shrimps, starfishes and other invertebrates - though not harmful for fishes. One of the most important points to enhance water quality is to keep it in motion. A moving water is perfect for gaseous exchange so that it remains oxygenated and as a result good for the health of the fishes. The best way to keep the aquarium water in motion is by using a powerhead. Also, the pumps play an important role in driving out excess of carbon dioxide from the water, which may result in low pH otherwise. It is advised to keep the levels of salt, calcium, alkalinity and temperature stable. Allow a standing time to the aquarium water so that the water chemistry comes to a stabilized state which is very important.

A quick highlight of the water chemistry:

- Temperature Range: 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)
- Specific Gravity Range: 1.020 to 1.024
- pH Range: 8.0 to 8.4
- Ammonia Level: 0
- Nitrite Level: 0
- Phosphate Level: 0
- Copper Level: 0
- Nitrate Range: 20ppm or less, especially for the invertebrates
- Carbonate Hardness Range: 7 - 10dKH

Set-up the Marine Aquarium - 4th Part

Adding Marine Fishes: Once the water chemistry comes to a stabilized state and the tank is totally cycled and ready, it is the perfect environment to add marine life into your Marine Aquarium System. Marine species not only includes marine fishes, but also anemones and other marine invertebrates. Maintaining saltwater fishes involves a lot of behavioral understanding, additional skill sets and knowledge. This is because the marine fishes in general are physiologically different and are less adaptable compared to the freshwater species. All you need is a stable environment and some special treatments and conditions - no other extra pampering is actually required to maintain the fishes. Compared to freshwater aquariums, a saltwater or marine aquarium supports a wider range of extraordinarily beautiful fishes. Some of the most popular saltwater fishes are Damsels, Lionfish, Clownfish, Triggerfish, Blennies, Butterfly fish and marine Angelfish. Among a wide range of marine fishes certain species like Clownfish, Wrasses, Anthias and Marine Betta throws a vibrant color to your aquarium. Once your marine aquarium system is ready, it is advisable to start with the popular sturdier marine fishes and Damsels are perfect for such cases. Damsels, unlike other popular marine species are much more sturdy and also less expensive compared to others.

However, one thing that should be kept in mind is that Damsels are a bit aggressive in their nature and so are not friendly with many of the other marine species. For another six months keep your marine aquarium on some of the few hardy marine fishes and do not miss out to keep a close eye on the conditions of the aquarium water. If everything goes well and well balanced, after approximately six months or so, try adding some of the hardy invertebrates. Among the hardy invertebrates, you can start with adding of soft corals, algae's, shrimps, anemones, starfish and urchins. You can also fill your marine aquarium with some of the other popular creatures like worms and sponges. After the successful addition and maintenance of these invertebrates and after about one to two years, you can start considering the comparatively sensitive invertebrates such as stony corals, clams etc. In an advance stage, you can even house your marine aquarium with somewhat larger invertebrates such as jellyfish and octopus. So by now, you could well guess that a marine aquarium is capable of housing a much wider range of creatures than you could actually imagine in case of freshwater aquarium.

Last but not the least, a healthy and spacious environment is required for the healthy growth of the marine fishes. In order to provide a healthy environment, never ever overstock your aquarium, which is a very common practice among beginners. Another very common mistake that should be avoided is overfeeding of the fishes that may lead to poor quality of water and even sickness leading to death of your aquarium fishes. It is always advisable to feed your marine fishes in small amounts so that it all gets eaten up, thus preventing the water from getting poor. Keeping aside all the technical points, one major job should be to check your aquarium fishes and invertebrates - their health and movement. Any signs of illness if noted, it is advised to check your water conditions, look for the symptoms of the disease and then consult your marine aquarium retailer or Internet books for advice.

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How to Set Up a Salt Water Aquarium - Pre Planning Tips For Salt Water Fish Tank Setup

Setting up a salt water fish tank setup is not a hard thing to accomplish, it just takes the proper planning in order to get it right the first time. If you research and learn a little bit before you act you will be able to learn how to set up a salt water aquarium that will give you little trouble and be enjoyable.

The First Step For Setting Up Saltwater Aquariums

Really the first thing you need to do is learn a little bit about the types of saltwater fish that are available and decide what type you would like to keep. This step is often overlooked by new people that are setting up saltwater aquariums and one that can end up costing you a lot of money.

The benefits to picking your saltwater fish before anything else is that you will be able to pick your tank size and filter sizes based on the fish you wish to keep.

For example if you decide on a larger tank with a few bigger predatory fish like triggers or lion fish you will have to invest much more in a larger filtration system then you would for a smaller tank with a few clown fish.

Because many marine fish will eat or fight with each other you can eliminate the possibility of putting predator and prey in the same tank, or mortal enemies for that matter.

Once you choose your fish you will have to decide on the filters and decorations you will use in your salt water fish tank setup.

The best thing to do to help you deiced is go to a good local fish store and look at their displays and see what you like. Take notice what fish they have in the tanks and how the tank looks. If it is similar to what you want to have talk to them about the equipment they use because it maybe the right salt water fish tank setup for you.

Buying the right equipment only once will help ensure you do not get frustrated with the hobby of saltwater fish tanks and quit for the wrong reasons.

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